How to Grow Plants from Cuttings

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Growing plants from cuttings is one of the most rewarding skills any homesteader or home gardener can learn. Instead of buying new plants every season, you take a small piece of a healthy plant — a stem, a leaf, or a root — and grow an identical plant for free.

It sounds simple because it is. Propagation from cuttings works for a huge range of garden plants — herbs, ornamentals, fruit shrubs, houseplants, and even some vegetables. Some plants root directly in water; others need soil and a touch of rooting hormone. Either way, once you understand the basics, the results are surprisingly reliable.

This guide walks you through every method — soil and water propagation, the different cutting types, how to boost success with rooting hormone, the best times of year to take cuttings, and how to troubleshoot when things go wrong.

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Plant Cuttings – Definition and Types

Plant cuttings are a piece of a plant, i.e., stem, leaves, or roots, that is cut off in 4-6 inches and buried into a growing medium to produce new roots of the same plant.

The growing medium can be anything from the soil, water, and sand. Mostly, the soil is by far the most typical media. Howbeit, water or sand can also be used.

Generally, you may grow different types of plants from these cuttings, including annuals, perennials, and woody plants. You will need a healthy plant to take the cutting from and use a sharp knife or pruning shears.

Here are some of the most common plant cuttings you may consider to propagate.

Stem Cuttings

A stem cutting is a method of vegetative (or asexual) propagation where a section of stem from the parent plant is cut and placed in a growing medium to root and form a new plant. It is an easy and inexpensive way to propagate new plants, especially woody shrubs and trees.

These cuttings can be obtained from the following resources,

Herbaceous and Softwood cuttings

Both herbaceous and softwood stem cuttings have a high success rate for rooted cuttings. However, a few crucial differences exist when assessing which cut to use.

Herbaceous stem cuttings are taken from plants with soft, fleshy stems, generally taken from early to mid-summer during the plant’s active growth period.

On the contrary, softwood cuttings are taken from young, softwood plants. They are usually taken from late spring to early summer when the new growth starts to harden.

Semi-Hardwood Cuttings

Semi-hardwood cuttings are taken from slightly older wood that is beginning to harden. They must be 6 to 8 inches long and harvested from the right season’s growth.

These cuttings are also suitable for a wide variety of popular houseplants. Therefore, it will be easy for you to produce young plants genetically identical to their parent.

Hardwood Cuttings

Hardwood stem cuttings are taken from deciduous plants that have lost their leaves for the winter. The ideal period to harvest cuttings is during the dormant season, which lasts from late fall to early winter.

Cuttings should be 4-6 inches long and taken from healthy, non-flowering stems. If you want to see new growth, make sure to cut slightly below a leaf node.

Leaf Cuttings

Leaf-cutting is a simple process of taking a leaf from a healthy plant and inserting it into potting soil. It’s a fun and easy way to propagate new plants as well as new shoots!

So, with just a few leaves and basic supplies, you can create new plants identical to their parent. These cuttings are best suited for plants that are challenging to grow in other ways.

Root Cuttings

One of the best ways to propagate woody plants is by taking root cuttings. Root cuttings are usually taken from young, vigorous plants still in the juvenile stage. This is because compared to older, more mature plants, they are likely to grow roots faster.

The cuttings should be taken from the outermost part of the plant, as this is where the most actively growing roots are. To take a root cutting, simply cut off a section of the root about 4-6 inches long that has at least 2-3 buds attached to it.

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Propagation Basics

By taking cuttings from an existing plant and encouraging them to grow roots, you can create new plants that are identical to the parent plant. This is an excellent approach to increasing the number of your favorite plants without needing to buy more.

However, there are a few basics to keep in mind when propagating new plants from cuttings:

Preparing Cuttings

Choose a healthy plant to take your cutting from. This will ensure that your cutting is disease-free and has a good root system.

After choosing your plant, make a precise incision just below a leaf node with a sharp knife or pair of scissors. Then, dip the cut end of your cutting in the rooting hormone.

Planting Cuttings

Put your cutting in a planter with some moist potting soil. Remember that the potting mix should be damp but not wet. Also, don’t forget to place the mixture in a warm, bright location. This will help encourage faster root growth.

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How to Make Different Types of Cuttings

A great way to get additional plants for no cost is to learn to take plant cuttings. And it isn’t as difficult as you may think. Here’s a step-by-step guide to taking cuttings from different types of plants. 

How to Make Herbaceous and Softwood Stem Cuttings

To make herbaceous and softwood stem cutting, you will need a sharp knife or pair of scissors and a pot of soil. Here’s the exact process:

How to Make Semi-hardwood Cuttings

To make semi-hardwood cuttings, cut a 6-8 inch piece of stem from the plant, making sure to cut just below a node.

After that, cut off the stem’s lower half of leaves and soak the cut end in rooting hormone.

Next, insert the stem into a pot filled with moistened potting mix. Make sure the leaves are above the potting soil. Additionally, irrigate the soil frequently to keep it moist.

In 4-6 weeks, your cutting should have rooted and be ready to transplant.

How to Make Hardwood Cuttings

Hardwood cuttings should be made from robust stems formed at least a year ago. These stems should contain a couple of buds. So, when you snip it off, you get at least two buds attached to it.

Cut a 6-8 inch piece from the branch at a 45-degree angle. Then you may follow the same procedure as the semi-hardwood cuttings to develop roots within a couple of weeks.

How to Make Specialized Stem Cuttings

Specialized stem cuttings are some variations of stem cuttings, including cane cutting and lead-bud cutting. These methods are often used for difficult plants propagating via other cutting means.

Cane cuttings are generally related to plants that have thick stems. On the contrary, leaf-bud cuttings mean cutting off a single bud with a leaf from a plant.

To make these specialized stem cuttings, you’ll need a paring blade or pruning shears. After that, you can put the cutting in a container with moist soil and give it regular watering. You should see new growth peeking out from the cutting in a couple of weeks.

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Best Houseplants for Cuttings

One of the easiest houseplants to propagate from cuttings is the African violet (Saintpaulia). African violets can be propagated from leaf or stem cuttings and will readily produce new plants.

Another easy-to-propagate plant is the coleus (Plectranthus scutellarioides). Coleus can be propagated from stem cuttings and will quickly produce new plants.

However, if you’re up for a challenge, you may try propagating rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis). Compared to some other plants, rosemary requires a little more work to reproduce.

Beyond houseplants, many food-producing plants are excellent candidates for cuttings. Herbs like mint, basil, and oregano root in as little as a week. Fruit shrubs — blueberries, gooseberries, currants — propagate well from hardwood cuttings taken in late fall. If you’re growing your own vegetables, tomatoes and sweet peppers can also be propagated this way, letting you extend your best-performing plants through the season without buying new starts.

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How to Grow Plants from Cuttings in Water

Water propagation is the easiest method for beginners — and one of the most satisfying. You can watch the roots develop in real time without disturbing the cutting at all. Many popular houseplants and herbs root effortlessly this way.

Step-by-step: water propagation

1. Take a clean cutting — snip a 4–6 inch section just below a leaf node using clean scissors or pruning shears.
2. Remove lower leaves — strip any leaves that would sit below the waterline. Submerged leaves rot and foul the water quickly.
3. Place in a clean container — a glass jar or small vase works perfectly. Clear glass lets you monitor root progress without disturbing the cutting.
4. Fill with room-temperature water — tap water is fine, but let it sit for 30 minutes first if your supply is heavily chlorinated.
5. Position in indirect light — a bright windowsill out of direct sun is ideal. Direct sun heats the water and promotes algae growth.
6. Change the water every 3–5 days — fresh water prevents bacterial buildup and keeps oxygen levels high enough for rooting.
7. Transfer to soil when roots reach 1–2 inches — once established, pot into moist, well-draining potting mix and water consistently for the first two weeks as the plant adjusts.

Best plants for water propagation

Not every plant takes to water propagation equally well. These are among the most reliable candidates:

• Pothos — roots in 1–2 weeks; almost impossible to fail
• Mint — roots in 7–10 days; ideal for kitchen windowsills
• Basil — takes 1–2 weeks; you can start with stems from a grocery store bunch
• Coleus — fast rooter, typically 10–14 days
• Impatiens — roots quickly; great for filling garden beds cheaply
• Begonia — stem cuttings root well in water in 2–3 weeks
• Willow — contains natural rooting hormones and roots freely in water

Woody plants like roses and lavender generally do better in soil with rooting hormone. Water propagation works best with soft, fleshy stems that have no tendency to rot quickly.

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Do You Need Rooting Hormone?

Rooting hormone is a powder, gel, or liquid containing plant hormones — typically indole-3-butyric acid (IBA) — that stimulate root growth at the cut end of a stem. It speeds up the process and improves success rates, especially for difficult-to-root plants and hardwood cuttings.

When rooting hormone makes a real difference

• Hardwood cuttings (roses, lavender, rosemary, fruit shrubs) — strongly recommended
• Semi-hardwood cuttings — helpful, especially for slower-rooting species
• Any cutting you’re not confident about — it’s inexpensive insurance against failure

When you can skip it

• Soft herbaceous cuttings (mint, basil, impatiens) — these root so readily that hormone adds little benefit
• Water propagation — generally not needed; the water environment handles moisture and oxygen
• Succulents and cacti — use a specialized succulent mix instead; rooting hormone on succulents can sometimes encourage rot

Powder, gel, or liquid? Powder is the most common and the most shelf-stable. Gel clings well to the cut surface and is popular with beginners. Liquid is used commercially for large batches. Any form works — the key is coating the cut end before planting without knocking it off as you insert the cutting.

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Best Time of Year to Take Cuttings

Timing matters more than most beginners realize. Cuttings taken at the right growth stage root faster, resist disease better, and survive at a higher rate. Here’s a quick reference by cutting type:

Cutting Type	Best Season	Examples
Softwood / herbaceous	Late spring to early summer	Mint, basil, fuchsia, impatiens, chrysanthemum
Semi-hardwood	Midsummer to early fall	Boxwood, holly, rosemary, lavender, camellia
Hardwood	Late fall to early winter (dormant)	Roses, forsythia, privet, fig, grape, dogwood
Leaf cuttings	Spring or summer (active growth)	African violet, succulent, begonia, sansevieria

As a general rule, the best results come when the parent plant is healthy and actively growing — not stressed by drought, pests, or temperature extremes. Take cuttings in the morning, when plants are fully hydrated and stems are turgid.

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Why Your Cuttings Aren’t Rooting (and How to Fix It)

Most cutting failures come down to a handful of fixable problems. Here are the most common culprits and what to do about them:

• Cutting taken from a diseased or stressed plant — always propagate from the healthiest growth you can find. Yellowed, pest-damaged, or drought-stressed stems rarely root successfully.
• Too much water / soggy medium — the growing medium should be moist, not wet. Saturated soil starves developing roots of oxygen. Good drainage is essential from day one — avoid compacting the mix around the cutting.
• Wrong season — hardwood cuttings taken in spring rarely root well; softwood cuttings taken in fall have the same problem. Match your cutting type to the right time of year (see the table above).
• No humidity cover — cuttings lose moisture through their leaves before roots develop to replace it. Covering with a clear plastic bag or an upturned clear bottle creates a mini-greenhouse effect that keeps humidity high without drowning the cutting.
• Too much direct sun — bright, indirect light is ideal while rooting. Direct sun drives rapid transpiration that a rootless cutting simply can’t sustain.
• Cutting not node-adjacent — always cut just below a leaf node, where rooting hormones are most concentrated. Aim for 4–6 inches for most plants, with a clean cut at a slight angle to maximize the surface area exposed.
• Contaminated tools — dirty scissors introduce fungal and bacterial disease. Wipe blades with rubbing alcohol before taking cuttings and between different plants.

If you keep losing cuttings, start with something foolproof — pothos, mint, or impatiens — to build your intuition. Once you see how healthy roots develop and what a thriving cutting looks like, you’ll quickly get a feel for when something’s going wrong early enough to fix it.

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Frequently Asked Questions about Growing plants from cuttings